BIW takes a time out in Las Vegas

After almost three months on a totally incredible adventure, it's time to put our motorhome in storage near the Las Vegas airport, and fly home to New Jersey.  We'll be back in mid-January for more!

A day with the Fremont Indians

Today's journey was across Interstate 70 (120 miles of NO services) to visit the site of a major Fremont Indian settlement, dating from 1,000 years ago.  First we drove over Ruthie's favorite natural landscape, the Waterpocket Fold, while driving west on 70.

As we arrived at Utah's Fremont Indian State Park & Museum......there was a problem.  Didn't just happen, actually happened around 1986 when the engineers who designed I-70, decided to use 2/3s of Five Finger Ridge for raising the highway bed.  It turns out that Five Finger Ridge was the location of the Fremont's settlement.  All bad news, except at least many of the artifacts including pottery, hunting tools, and baskets were "discovered", and saved for inclusion in the future museum.  We would hope that today, such a horrible decision would not be made.



The museum had very interesting artifacts and was surrounded by rock cliffs with petroglyphs from 400 AD all the way to the mid 1800s.

For the night we pulled into the local National Forest campground and discovered a very nice Castle Rock campground.  We'll need to remember this next time, for a convenient stop over.

Arches, Arches, and more Arches

Five days in the Moab, Utah area.............There's arches along the Colorado River, and there's arches in Arches National Park.  And there are great hikes.  First we had to obtain a good camp site; so we headed out early and pulled into Goose Island campground at 8am.  There was only one available site in this small BLM campground which is right on the Colorado River.  Since the"early camper catches the site", we got it!  A great location plus a rental car for the time we were here, made for a good visit.

First a drive down the Colorado River Canyon to the trailhead for Bowtie and Corona Arch.  A hike to both was well worth the effort.

Next day, we drove to the trailhead for Fisher Towers, and took one of our top ten hikes.








Then there was a "Cowboy" dinner at Red Cliffs Lodge.
Nice of Ruthie to invite me!

Also a day at Arches NP, to hike and see many of the arches.  And of course, a must hike was to Delicate Arch.  So famous its even on the Utah license plates.



Even a drive up into the Manti La Sal mountains.  Took our small Ford Focus on a very unimproved gravel road to a very quaint campground and picnic area on a small lake.  A picnic lunch before heading back down to Moab.

And finally, a day of biking along the paved bike trails by the Colorado and up to the National Park.

Needles section of Canyonlands National Park

Last time we were here at Needles was in 2004.  It was us, a rented Ford Explorer, and our little 7x7 tent.  We took a jeep tour across Elephant Hill and convinced the tour leader that it would be okay for us to hike back to our campsite through Chesler Park.  He did give us some extra water for the 7 plus mile hike.  We remember this hike well, as it was getting dark as we got close to "home", and we didn't have flashlights.

This time we pulled in with our motorhome at our chosen site, which although long enough for our RV, had a huge drainage dip..........no way we could get into our site, and the campground was full.  Luckily, we stopped in at the Visitor Center, and luck had it that they had an "administrative" site, so we were good to camp!

We stayed for 3 days, but should plan a week next time, as there are so many wonderful hikes through canyons, across slick rock, across scrub plains.  The Needles rock formations are so beautiful, and the hikes (though sometimes a little challenging) are just plain, the best.  Where else can you be climbing through rubble, walk along a narrow ledge, climb down a ladder at the edge of the abyss, and walk between canyon walls?

The campground, now that we've noted the sites without the DIPS, is also great.  Our site had us back into a wall of rock while facing out at all of  the Needles formations.  And then there are the incredible night skies without any conflicting light (no power here, not even lights in the restrooms).  WOW!  We'll be back.

Finally, we toured Natural Bridges National Monument!

Natural Bridges is the first National Monument established in Utah.  How did Teddy Roosevelt know about this place way out near the Glen Canyon area?  We've RV'd near the Monument many times in the past, but never stopped to check out this park.  Glad that we stopped this time.

Although we were disappointed that we couldn't squeeze into their campground (maximum length 26ft with large boulders keeping out the bigger RVs), we did drive the 8 mile loop road.

But how could we just drive the scenic loop?  So we parked at a trailhead and hiked to two of the three famous bridges.  And what is the difference between Arches and Bridges?  Bridges have/had a river flow under them. 

After hiking over 5 miles, we saw two Natural Bridges, up close and personal. We followed the trail to the Sipapu Bridge after walking across the mesa and then down to the wash.  The Sipapu is the  second largest bridge in the world.  Continuing on our hike, we then hiked through the wash to Kachina Bridge, and finally back up to the top of the canyon where our RV was waiting for us.  A fairly strenuous hike; but well worth it.  Now tired, we continued driving on the loop road, and we have to admit, we only viewed the third bridge, the Owachoma Bridge from the parking lot viewpoint.

And where did we camp for the night?  A recommendation from a park ranger:  3 miles outside the park there is an abandoned runway on BLM land.  So another boondock.

Capitol Reef National Park

In Fruita, Utah, in the heart of the Waterpocket Fold, there is an oasis in this desert canyon country.  Mormon pioneers settled this area in the late 1800s, irrigating their fields and orchards from the always flowing Fremont River.  Today the orchards are maintained by the park service, and there are wonderful hikes through the canyons.

There is a 71 site campground set in a former orchard, and still adjacent to apple and pear trees.  With no reservations accepted, we understand why the park service now advices to arrive by 10am to get a campsite.  So after boondocking our first night, we arrived by 8am and secured a site surrounded by Fall-golden trees.  Immediately, we headed over to the Gifford Farm house where we picked up a cinnamon bun, an apple pie, and a strawberry rhubarb pie (all 6").  Over the next few days, we also entered the apple orchard and picked apples...nothing better than fresh picked!

 

So much for R&R........the main event was to hike some special trails.  One day we biked the park road to the Grand Wash trailhead.  Parked our bikes and headed out the wash through the Narrows.  Tall canyon walls closed in to 16 feet, as we walked the wash.

One of Morey's top ten all-time hikes was on tap for another day.  Starting at a trailhead just across from our campground, we hiked up the Cohab Canyon trail to the mesa top, then split off on the Frying Pan trail (called this because there is no shade?), and then to the Cassidy Arch trail.  

After over 7.5 miles and over 1,500 feet in elevation, there was no way we were going to walk back to the campground.  Morey said, no problem, we'll hitch hike; so we surveyed cars leaving the trail head at the Cassidy Arch trail; no takers, so we started walking.  A car approached, and we were successful snagging a ride back to the campground.  Whew!

Boondocking..................

It's about time. 
Being such good planners, making reservations where we suspect full campgrounds, were we ever going to boondock?  Well, it happened.

We arrived at Capitol Reef at around 3pm, only to discover that the campground was full (no reservations accepted).  Suggested by the campground host, we headed just outside the Park, to a BLM dispersed area.  We pulled in and secured some property.  Before the sun set, we weren't alone!

A week at Zion National Park

We knew that Zion was a very special place, but after spending a week here, we realized that this is a very, very special place.  Pulled BIW into one of the recently remodeled campsites; paved, level, and lots of space for our screen house, and chairs.

Joining us were our RV friends, Gail & Dan, and my sister, Kathy, and her husband Mel.

Over the week, we did a number of incredible hikes.  From just outside the park boundaries we took the East Mesa Trail to Observation Point.  After a little over three miles of hiking, we found ourselves overlooking the Virgin River valley at Observation Point.  And without the 2,500 foot climb!

Another day we headed toward Angels Landing (this time with a 2,000 foot climb); up Walter wiggles to the West Rim Trail.  If we had only brought our overnight backpacks...so magnificent, we wished we could continue this hike for another 14 miles.

 

And then to cap it all off, we hiked the Narrows.  This time we rented waterproof boots, waterproof leggings, and an official Zion walking stick.  Slogging up the Virgin River, we carefully stepped through the rocks, around sandbars, all to get to some incredible sights.  Morey did lose his footing on the return, splash; but all was okay; and Ruthie shared some of her dry clothes (thanks!). We did make it to Wall Street, Ruthie's goal.

 

Tomorrow we drive out early along  Route 12; a chance to rest our muscles.

The Havasu Canyon Trail

On Ruthie's bucket list for many years, we finally made it to some of the most beautiful water falls in the world.  It took a lot of planning, and lots of perseverance (making phone reservations - the only method; and good luck getting through on the phone, and then good luck getting a reservation for a trail permit and accommodations).

Here is how we did it................

Morey after a number of phone calls, finally got Lodge reservations for two nights in Supai (the only village by the falls).  Included, although we weren't sure, was also the permits to be allowed to hike the trail on Havasupai land.  Supai can only be reached by the trail that we hiked.  No vehicles.

We met our friends, the Zamostny's, at the closest RV campground, Grand Canyon Cavern RV Park,  where we could leave our RVs for a few days while we hiked into the canyon.  (65 miles to the Hilltop trailhead.)  While at this Cavern RV Park, we checked out the kitschy "Radiator Springs"props. (as in the Disney Cars movie), and all the old stuff..............memories from our childhood.  Was this old tourist spot near Peach Springs the inspiration for the movie?

At 6:30 the next morning, we drove to the trailhead and then after checking in,we started the 8 mile
hike down into the canyon to the village of Supai.  A steep trail with a drop of over 1,000 feet in the first mile, it fortunately leveled out and took us down a wash and between towering canyon walls at a less precarious drop.


Arriving at the village of Supai, with a small grocery store, a "restaurant" with few choices, and the Lodge, we caught some glimpses of the Havasu Creek and its incredible blue turquoise waters.  We were glad that we booked the Lodge for a couple of nights after the arduous descent.

Navajo Falls

The next day we hiked another 6 miles, through the campground (maybe we'll stay here next time?), along the creek, and past the three magnificent waterfalls; all with the blue turquoise water.

First was Navajo Falls.....

Then Havasu Falls, with the pools at the base where we should? have gone swimming.  The travertine walls on both sides of the falls added to this spectacular place.

Havasu Falls

Then to Mooney Falls where there is a long ladder that gets you down to its base.  After talking to a number of braver and younger campers, we deferred on the long rickety ladder route, but did climb on the rocks and gaze down at the roaring water.

Morey crossing the creek to one of the campsites.

Mooney Falls

On our final day, we hiked back out to the Hilltop trailhead.  Backtracking, we hiked the 8 miles and climbed 2400 feet.  We started in the early morning to try to avoid the sun and heat at midday.  Didn't do too bad as we emerged at the trailhead at 1:30pm.  The last few miles were steep and hot, but we were proud of our accomplishment!  






We did spot the mule train carrying the Gatorade down to Supai.


For the readers:  We discovered that there is a helicopter that will transport you to and from Supai (for the less hardy), and there are also mules (we saw too may of them galloping through our hike) that will carry backpacks and supplies.  So maybe next time, we will stay at the campground between the blue turquoise waters and have the mules carry our packs?