Bandolier National Monument

With the weather staying wonderfully sunny and warm, we decided to check out some more Native American cliff dwellings and pueblos.  Bandolier, which was one of the first National Monuments (1916) has maintained these historical ruins.

Our good friends, Steven and Joan, joined us camping here.  Together we set out on some great hiking trails and into the ruins.  Ladder climbing seems to be the activity of choice on these trails, and so we did the climbing to some alcoves and former native homes.  We also checked out the Bradbury Museum in Los Alamos, where the development of the atomic bomb and its impact on our world is on display.  Camping at Bandolier, just down the road, we didn't see the glow of Los Alamos....mmmm?

A stop in Albuquerque, New Mexico

Looks like we are finally heading East on our way home.  When driving along I-40, a few days in Albuquerque are required.  After taking a walking tour of the city and discovering that there are NO historical buildings (built out of adobe, the Rio Grande has dissolved them).  In addition to our tour of "old" town, we spent time at the Art Museum; very enjoyable.

For the night, we camped at Coronado County Park.  What a place, with a view out our front windshield of the Rio Grande River!  (And if the river floods, our motorhome won't melt like the old town buildings.)



On a recommendation, we checked out the Balloon Museum.  Albuquerque is the town of the world's largest hot air balloon festival, held every year in October.  We learned all there is to learn about the history and the current record setting balloon adventures.  On display were a number of these including the first crossing of the Atlantic by balloon. Pretty HOT !!

El Morro National Monument

Visited by Teddy Roosevelt and designated as one of the first National Monuments by him, El Morro NM was established to "save" the many Spaniard and pioneer inscriptions carved into the soft Navaho sandstone.  With a pool of water, precious in this part of New Mexico, many of the travelers took the time to stop and note their passing through this area.  Starting with the Spaniards in 1620, through the pioneers passing through on their way to the west coast in the mid 1800s, and then to the tourist's graffiti in the 1930s.

And above "Inscription Rock", is a large pueblo that has been partly excavated.   Sitting on top of the mesa, it has a commanding view of the valley on all sides.  The pool of fresh water also drew these earlier people to stay and call this area their home.

Here in Navaho Country

After driving across tribal lands in some awesome but also desolate territory, we arrived at Chinle, AZ and camped at the Cottonwood Campground at Canyon de Chelly.  We spent the next day exploring the canyon and the ancient buildings and culture.  Starting at the Visitor Center, we planned our travels to take both the north and south rim roads. 







At the many lookouts we walked out to the edge and peered down to the amazing cliff dwelling remains that all became abandoned by the 1350s.  Unlike other canyons, Canyon de Chelly has a flat open area suitable for farming at its base.  The perennial flow of the river made this a good place to raise crops, and still have the security of living up high in the canyon wall.

Today the Navaho's still farm in the canyon, growing corn, and grazing sheep and their horses.




At the White House cliff dwelling, we took the one accessible trail down 1.25 miles to the canyon floor and the ruins.  This was one of our favorite trails as it went through two short caves, along slick rock ledges, before crossing a bridge with the Navaho horses grazing nearby.

For the second day in Navaho country, we headed to Gallup, NM which is the Navaho Nation's center.  On the way we stopped at the Hubbel Trading Post.  Still in use today, this store was established in the 1880's trading food and dry goods to the Navaho for their agricultural products and crafts.  Absolutely beautiful Navaho rugs, baskets, pottery, and carvings are for sale; but now trading for dollars.

Goodbye to the Grand Canyon

We have never had three posts on one of our RV adventures, but here is the exception. 

On our last day, we packed up our RV and headed out the eastern entrance with our last stop at Desert View.  Brought back good memories of when we camped here four years ago. 

This time we revisited Mary Colter's watch tower, which was built to replicate the many watch towers of the native Americans in the southwest.  The interior was painted in the 30's by the grandson of Cloud Mountain who was performing native music when we were visiting.  Cloud Mountain then took us up the winding staircase to explain the murals. 

Wonderful music and a fascinating story of how the first human (predecessor of the Hopi) traveled down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon.  He traveled in a carved out log, and met his bride (of the snake people) at the Gulf of California where the river ended its journey.  They traveled back home together with a bag of special items, but he couldn't wait to open the bag as instructed, and the promised wealth reverted back.  Note the circle divided into quadrants with the story beginning on the top left and goes clockwise.

 

Around and under the rim

Five days here at the Grand Canyon was not time enough.  After our day of biking, we did a six mile rim walk, because we just couldn't get enough of the awesome views.  We kept wanting to head down into the canyon and explore.  With the weather being ideal for this early March visit, walking the rim trail was the perfect choice for the day.

The next day, we selected the Hermit's Trail, which was built in the early 1900s for the Fred Harvey Company to avoid the toll on the Bright Angel Trail.  When completed it was advertised as the best engineered trail in the Canyon, where the hiker could stroll down to the specially constructed campground, a couple of thousand feet below the rim.




We found the Hermit Trail to be steeper than our prior hikes below the rim.  What once was a trail of man made pavers in the steepest sections, now unmaintained, has become a rocky trail, where we had to watch our footing.  Still the two miles down and back made for a great hike.  We found different views of the Canyon, and the remnants of this highly engineered trail.

We're leaving the Grand Canyon, but we will back.  Maybe a raft trip on the Colorado River; maybe a backpack trip from the North to the South Rim?  This is just too incredible a place not to return.

The Canyon is Calling .....

Having spent over 3 weeks in arid Arizona; Sedona and the fabulous red rock formations, the Saguaros with their arms and nubs, the great hikes to surprising springs and tanks, and the temperatures hitting 90 degrees.....It was now time to head to pine trees and cooler temps.  And, our plans to go to Chiracahua National Monument (one of our favorite parks) were besmirched when we received a message that the roads to the hiking trails were closed  .

So what did we do??  The Grand Canyon was calling us...  "Come Visit, the temps are perfect, and the views are sublime."  So we changed our plans and bee lined; well actually moseyed to the Canyon.

First stop after spending a night at a National Forest campground with pine trees; (no cactus)
was Tonto Natural Bridge State Park.  Found this gem of a park on our AAA map.   Here is the largest travertine arch in the world! 
After a 14% grade to get down to the bridge, and passing the flowering trees, we hiked to the Bridge.
WOW ! 
BIW had no problem climbing the 14% to continue our journey....Remember, the Canyon is Calling.......So no delays allowed.


Now to the Grand Canyon.  Spent the first two nights at the Trailer Ranch campground with full hookups....so we could watch the Super Tuesday primaries, and prepare for our upcoming dry camping.  Our first stop when we arrived at the National Park was the Visitor Center and then a walk to the Rim.  The Canyon is as awe inspiring as ever!

Our first full day, we mounted our bikes and headed to Hermits Rest.  Did this four years ago, and it was even better than remembered.  One great view after another.  After the 20 mile ride, including some 6% grades, we are tired but exhilarated.    More Canyon to come before we move on.